We leave the boat in the Marina at around 50%SoC connected to a charger whose voltage is set to that necessary to hold this SoC (around 13.18v). Shunts in series so they are measuring exactly the same current. We’ve got a Mastervolt Ah-counting meter, and a BMV712. Thus means that inevitable integration errors slowly build up. The only trouble is that with Li, one doesn’t tend to regularly fully charge and thus synchronise to 100%. I think the OP was asking in relation to LA though, which tends to have a fickle and short-lived nominal capacity. Not so much with Li, because they have a much more stable and long lasting capacity. The combination allows a good idea of the health of the batteries (ie actual capacity as opposed to badged capacity). In my opinion the best setup for lead acid batteries is a combination of a Smartgauge, which gives an honest SoC during discharge, and a BMV712 which is good for monitoring charging. But I am unclear why you would want to walk up to it to read it, when it’s Bluetooth functionality means you can see everything you need to see (and more) from the comfort of your armchair, via your phone.Īs Ah-counting monitor go, the BMV712 is very good IMO, not least because of its very low power consumption. It’s true that the display is quite small. And only then do you realise there is more, truly microscopic information on the screen which you can only see with ya glasses on and a torch! Get a good look at one and see how small the main display is. The Victron BMV712 has the best functionality AFAICS, but having one myself I find it has the most irritating drawback - the display is TINEEEEE. I was more than happy to just use a decent digital ammeter and voltmeter (which you get with monitors) and managed to make a set of Exide leisure batteries last over six years until we sold the boat. That way you can see just how far out the monitor reading has drifted. The volts,amps and amp hours out reading swill be accurate, it is the % charged and Ah left that tend to be untrue so assess when fully charged by the tail current (1 to 2% of battery capacity) and the state of charge inferred from rested voltage. Some are better in this respect than others but all tend to be affected to some degree. If you buy any monitor that basically counts amp hours please be aware that if fitted straight from the box without setting it up or if the user does not set it up properly and recalibrate it very regularly they all have a nasty habit of telling lies that actively encourage the destruction of your batteries. Now I know about you get what you pay for !!! but does anybody have any good/bad experiences with anything of this nature, and which one would be of most help. So I was thinking of treating le boat to a battery monitor, and am thinking about the nasa marine BM2, but on looking through t`internet I can see there are cheaper models. Firstly I would like to wish everyone a safe and Happy Christmas,
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